WHITE TRUFFLE VEAL BLANQUETTE; POLENTA TARAGNA, CROSNES
I AM ALWAYS EAGER to dip into our French culinary legacy, to revisit the dishes of my childhood and use them as the foundation of a new dish. Here I was inspired by veal blanquette, a bourgeois, creamy stew named in reference to the prized “blanc” (white) of the meat and the sauce, often made with veal shoulder, and first described in 1735 by Vincent la Chapelle in Le Cuisinier Moderne. For extraordinary tenderness, we choose veal cheek and poach it until the natural marbled gelatin dissipates, creating a lush melt-in-your-mouth kind of pleasure. In the sauce, we add a splash of vin jaune du Jura for a slight oaky taste with hints of hazelnut and hay. We give our diners the opportunity to taste three different cuts and preparations to contrast the texture of the braised cheek, the crisp sweetbread, and a roasted, thyme-infused veal fillet. And at the table, as part of a truffle menu, we shave a white truffle from Alba on top of the blanquette for a touch of magic.